Designers take creativity to the next level at the world’s most prestigious event.
As tired fashionistas made it to the final sprint of Paris Fashion Week’s 96 physical and digital Spring / Summer runways, Saturday’s runways provided the spark to keep the energy going, despite the rain and gray skies.
Some of the world’s best designers have channeled humor, vibrant colors, innovative design techniques, and even animated films for ever more imaginative presentations.
Here are some highlights from the spring-summer 2022 ready-to-wear collections:
Was it a tent?
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood was in distinctively eccentric form.
Blending Glam Rock references from Westwood’s heyday of the 80s with historical reflections and firm language, Kronthaler created 66 fashion pieces and put on one of the funniest shows of this Parisian fashion season.
On a plasma screen that projected enlarged images of architecture and textiles, mannequins presented styles that almost defied description.
Andreas Kronthaler for Viv Wstw isn’t that bad. I love them. pic.twitter.com/Mah95W9O36
– 𝗔 𝗙.☯︎︎ (@italybutoncrack) October 2, 2021
Did the pale wedding dress with invisible scaffolding at the back resemble a tent, or was it meant to evoke a garment that had been hung to dry on a clothesline? A giant white historic hat has a slim shape, but on closer inspection it was made from a plush toy bearing the face of a bearded old man.
But if the humor was undeniable, there were also many moments of sublime fashion design.
A trompe-l’oeil dress had a pale blue fabric “floating” abstractly down the front. The simpler looks were also some of the best, including a draped white dress with beautiful dynamic material.
Cinema meets fashion
Avant-garde Tokyo house Kunihiko Morinaga has built a huge fan base in Japan for its daring concepts that merge art and fashion.
Saturday, Morinaga did not disappoint.
– Vanessa Friedman (@VVFriedman) October 2, 2021
The award-winning designer has gifted fashion editors a collaboration with Oscar-nominated Japanese animation filmmaker Mamoru Hosoda.
It was a fashion short set in the land of “U” – with clothing that evoked the iconic sci-fi movie “Tron”.
The polygonal silhouettes made from fabric triangles in his signature patchwork were immersed in the fictional universe of a sort of futuristic Japan.
Closer to reality
Lebanese celebrity designer Elie Saab has softened his aesthetic for spring with a simple and tasteful collection.
Prints featuring the logo began to display. But the looks quickly moved away – and thankfully – from that rather unsubtle idea into light shirt dresses with segments of lace detail.
A white dress of ample proportions looked elegant and minimalist, almost clinical. It worked well with a vanilla handbag and matching sandals.
Beautiful outfits from the Elie Saab Spring 2022 collection pic.twitter.com/a1CNiaCbQU
– Spread love and kindness 🙏 (@FashionweekNYC) October 3, 2021
Delicate touches abounded in this welcome direction for the designer famous for his va-va-voom silhouettes. Her signature high or cinched waist was still there, but executed smoothly.
The piece de resistance ? A 70s teal green jumpsuit hybrid with pleats that snapped elegantly in the air.
Like any other day
In the heart of the trendiest and most streetwear district in Paris, Le Marais, Pierpaolo Piccioli by Valentino lets go of his hair.
This has resulted in a vibrant and varied collection called “Rendez-vous”.
For spring, her goal was to show fashion as it should be – worn on the streets. And this he literally did.
There were shiny gold sequins, vibrant colors, baggy jeans and shiny Juliet sleeves that smacked of the 80s. This season, the Italian designer has embarked on a welcome disco direction.
Yet the designs remained refined despite the daydreaming of the street: a loose emerald men’s suit had a lavender silk scarf collar that flapped delicately from below.
“(It is) the street not as streetwear but conceived … like real life”, clarified the intentions of the house Piccioli.
Source: TRTWorld and agencies